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Greece, with Gusto!
1.
Once upon a time, a 78-year-old man living a relatively satisfactory life within sight of Cape Cod Bay, devised a plan to circle the Earth. It would be his last such opportunity, he thought. Yet even while strapping on his long-winged feathers he could barely walk no less fly. One hamstring was ruptured. One entire leg was black and deep purple. His breathing was compromised, his heart was in persistent atrial fibrillation, and, quite honestly the guy had no real idea why he really wanted to go on such a voyage, except that he’d been planning it for years, he felt a persistence sense of needing to get away from the familiar, he wanted to walk in beauty, and he desired to travel outside the daily madness that is America. Most of all he would travel in the hope of finding some clarity, he thought, a sense of direction, of purpose, of greater self-acceptance and full engagement with the gifts and terrors of his final chapters. Besides, how much longer would he be physically and psychically able to take such trips on his unmistakably clear path toward the termination of his mission, a fate he shares with Daedalus’ son Icarus.
2.
The initial plan was to begin in San Francisco where his daughter and grandchildren live and from there proceed to Kathmandu. He actually buys tickets, one for himself, one for his friend/ex-girlfriend. His current partner finds the planning and contemplation of such a voyage with one’s old mate, even if our hero promises said trip will not include physical intimacy, well, let’s just say, disturbing. One wonders what this guy does not get. Not to mention the forbearance of his mate.
Anyhow, what he actually doesn’t get is his trip to Nepal. And what he does actually get is three days in a SF hospital on the geriatric ward where he discovers he’s been bleeding to death internally. You think there is a message here? That maybe he really wasn’t supposed to go to Nepal with his ex-girlfriend. That maybe he need a different plan where love and death lurk. So much for Nepal, my friends. So much for an around the world voyage. Here is the naked truth, if he had gotten on the plane to Kathmandu he’d be dead.
3.
And in these circumstances, the dream of circling the world ends, whereupon, humbled and far weaker, and ridiculously and instantaneously far older than he has ever been, he flies back to the Cape where his mate, Luna the Forbearing, is happy to see him safe and present, absent the need to suffer the agony of her man being with another woman in Nepal, which then brings our two lovers, in the spirit of Cupid and Psyche, to Greece.
4.
Greece is not Cape Cod, of course, not even with all that water, not America, not Nepal. Greece is an ancient country in the middle of the Mediterranean, Ionian, and Aegean seas filled with history, islands, shorelines, coves, caves, olives, wonderful food, and antiquity, something we in the west know not. Greece, a place he never imagined he wanted to be and yet here, without plans, without a return ticket, and without any sense where this is meant to lead, except to an inevitable rendezvous with death. Which means pay attention.
The flight to Greece is not easy. The long passage between terminals in Gatwick is tiring. The long wait between flights is challenging. The couple takes the Metro into Athens after 18 hours of travel. They are lost, hungry, and tired. They have another battle. Each loses. Again.
5.
Ah, but Greece. Greece is music and coffee. Greece is exceptional food and the Acropolis. Greece is Patras, where the Lenten carnival fills a day. Greece is meat. Greece is Lagia, at the far southern end of the Mani, a peninsula in the Peloponnese where our Airbnb is a stone house, with olive wood burning in the fireplace, olives on the table, and slippers by the bedside.
Lagia, our first real stop, is home to an exceptionally beautiful, mural covered, old subterranean church that actually ought be in Jerusalem, adjunct to the Church of the Holy Specula. The church priest is named George. You can call him Papa. Papa George owns the restaurant across from the church and the horse eating greens from the back of the open pickup truck in front of the restaurant. George owns the hotel down the beach, another hotel, and a farm. George has 4 sons and three grandsons. He advertises international baptism services, complete with throwing the infant up in the air at the end for photographs and making everyone happy. He has photographs on the walls. He makes and sells honey. He makes and sells olive oil and olive soap. He has never been outside of Greece. Not once. Still, George appears to be an exceptionally happy man, a man who appreciates the kindness and care of his loving god.
6.
We drive in Mani on roads frequently shown in impossibly spectacular photographs of overstated travel magazines. Really, I have seen much natural and astonishing beauty in my day, but the Mani roads are tied with those in Big Sur, Cinque Terra, the road to Hana. All the houses in the Mani are made of stone. The fields and hills are ablaze with yellow flowers. Mixed on the palette are deep purples, shocking reds, violets, whites. I have never seen so many olive trees, so many goats, so few cars or people, so few gasoline pumps or stores. It is the real world out here, home to Spartans, Homer, Poseidon. The land of rocks and olives at the shore and in the hills. Dogs guard the goats. The goats’ bells ring. God is in heaven and in the sea and we are in Greece.
7.
One poor dog we see is tied mercilessly next to some goats at a hairpin turn in the road, shaking and starving. The woman cries for him. She takes pictures of the dog to show Papa George, who calls the police. One never knows what they will be called to face in unfamiliar foreign fields. On the way out of Lagia we stop to visit the dog again, to bring him some food. His owner, a plump round dirty older woman has made the mistake of also being there. I stop the car on command and the Head of the Lagia International Pet Protection School (LIPS), who speaks no Greek, jumps out of the car and confronts the owner. LIPS tells the woman sternly that the dog’s leash is too short, that cruelty to animals is a criminal offense, that the woman shall be reported to PETA, and besides, that she is surely going to go to hell. This in perfect English. And the woman gets it, or gets something, because before long her arms are spread wide and she is gesturing passionately, defending the leash’s length, telling the LIPS lady the dog is fine and besides that it’s none of her damn business. Picture it, two Greek peasant women standing at the side of the road arguing with loud unintelligible voices and hand gestures, pointing at the dog who is trying to get away, like the guy in the car is. Dogs and cats. Greek cats. They are everywhere. Even on postcards. We buy more than a few. Later we buy bags of dog food to feed the strays.
8.
After Lagia, we land in Sparta. After father George, Dimitri, who emigrated with his family as a young man to Montreal, and has lived and owned property in Miami, Texas, and New York. Dimitri has no children and no wife. He’s made a lot of money in real estate. His mother, who lived near him in the states, was literally dying 5 years ago when she begged Dimitri to bring her back to Greece to end her days and be buried on her native soil. And Dimitri, ever the loyal son, brings her back to die in Greece, whereupon she has a complete recovery. Cooks. Shops. Dances while Dimitri prospers, buying more houses, more acreage with lemon trees, oranges, olives. He is already selling olive oil he packages and ships internationally. Dimitri, the epitome of the entrepreneurial spirit, approves of our plan to circumnavigate the entire country, Mani, Sparta, Mystos, Lefkada, Corfu, northern Greece to Thessaloniki, back down to Athens, a flight to Crete, you know, man plans and the gods laugh.
9.
So first to Mystos and then Kalavryta, where the ghost of the beast appears very vividly and by surprise. Or as the note which welcomes the visitor to the Kalavryta Holocaust Museum reads, “Fascism is not theory. It is a performance. You and us. And the leading actor is Death.”
10.
Then Lefkada, where we never intended to go and I run out of superlatives. Too much souvlaki, perhaps, Lips talking to every stray cat and dog, every butterfly and bee, explaining to the restaurant owner in English and with hand gestures why the owner’s caged birds needed clean water, which results in new bottles of water being delivered to our table.
11.
We go to Corfu. It will surprise you. The ferry is huge… and relatively empty. I don’t quite know what we do, but three days pass and we are still there. Our budget in Greece is 50% housing and rental car, 25% souvlaki, and 25% café fredos. The town of Pelakas is the epitome of all thing Corfuian. From there you drive to the northern edge of the island. There a big ghost city is waiting for summer and Germans. On the way over hilarious hairpin roads leading to the sea and eternity we talk of love. Our parents are here with us… in some ways welcome guests and in others just too much baggage to keep lugging around.
12.
This writing is supposed to be a “travelogue” about Greece, true, but the trip itself is also intended as a voyage to find a greater sense of direction, purpose, or self-acceptance as I enter and experience the gifts and terrors of this final chapter on the road to demise and non-existence. I am weaker, less mobile, less virile, less the powerfully physical man I was. Vulnerable. Poorer. Limited in ways I do not enjoy and find hard to accept. I am sad, focused on and aware of loss and of the need to say good-bye. Part of what engages me in this is a lifelong awareness of death’s inevitability and approach and the sense there were only a few ways to approach the end of self-aware life/aliveness.
13.
I blame these hopelessly romantic reveries on the Bronx, of course, on firefighters, and on Chief Wesley Williams, the first African American battalion chief in the NYFD, who my father served as Chief Williams’ sole aide and driver. Jews, Italians, Greeks, Indigenous Americans, the Irish, Germans, Catholics, poets, the Yankees, black people in transparent grief and joy, Sandy Koufax, soldiers fighting overseas, children screaming before annihilation, folks who speak other languages, butchers, woodworking shop, the dairy farm in upstate NY where our urban narrator worked summers in high school and saw birth and death in the raw all contribute to this romantic thread, but no matter what its origins, it is simply his “fate.”
14.
Meteora is the end of “us” though not of the trip. And in truth it is really a very simple declaration that ends it, a way Lips speaks of her pain and her fears of going mad that I feel in my heart and soul. I can no longer be the source of hers and my pains. I’ll tell you about the rest of the trip later. I’ve left out the break into our car and Lip’s terrible losses. I’ve left out the friends Lips made, the courage she displayed, her strength and courage. I’ve ignored Athens, Thesonaliki, and long walks up steep steps leading to new vistas and cafes where people sing in Greek to the gods.
Adventures in India: Day One
January 1, 2013
Chennai to Mamalahpurum
I don’t know what I expected when I chose Chennai as my point of entry into India, but my first impressions of the city are that it is way more and way less than whatever that was. The smell of the city is omnipresent and intense: old urine, onions, car emissions, something cooking that smells tempting, something rotting that smells and is repulsive, a hint of flowers when there are none to be seen, incense, jasmine. &;People sleep in the streets day and night. It is very hot and very muggy. And at the risk of making a gross overgeneralization, the people who are not sleeping in the streets seem very pushy and very aggressive, even by my New York standards. More than just the necessary jostle to get through a crowd there appears to be a sense of wanting to get ahead, to gain an advantage, to be the first. And it is not uncommon for me to be having a conversation with some shopkeeper or hotel receptionist when I am interrupted by someone else who simply wants to get in … now.
I did manage to arrive at the guesthouse I had hoped to stay in without a reservation around 11PM, notwithstanding the harrowing reality that the cab driver I rode with and his fellow Indian terrorist vehicle drivers all have absolutely no regard for the lane of the road they are driving in and I cannot even tell if they drive on the right side or on the left. In fact I think it may change from street to street or as conditions dictate. And when red lights that hold the vehicle terrorists back on occasion indicate by their digital countdown signal that there are less than twenty seconds left before the light changes to green the honking starts, and with about ten seconds left the entire lane of cars is moving forward through the remaining red light. As for crossing the roadway as a pedestrian, although it is accomplished by me by attaching myself to any one of the Indian contortionists who do so with casual regularity, to me it seems like a feat of immense daring and perfect timing.
The guesthouse is locked when I arrive there, but, after much bell ringing, the door is opened by a sleepy old man and an even sleepier younger man. They say everything is closed early because it is “election time,” although I’ve seen open teashops on my way into Chennai and later learn that the election itself is more than a month away. My room at this inn, complete with cold shower, toilet without toilet paper, and terrace surrounded by prison bars, is in an olden Maharaja’s home. After that it’s all down hill. The sheets have burn holes in them and I can scratch my itchy back on their roughly textured weave. The floor is concrete, cracked, dirty – no make that filthy – and has never met a rug or tile. The soles of my feet are dirty – no make that filthy – within a second or two and I have to take them into the bed with me. The walls are cracked, ancient, discolored, moldy, and covered with flaking plaster. Electric wires are hanging everywhere, although there are no electric outlets. Also no hot water, soap, towels, blankets, cabinets, or even wall hooks. There is one old rusty metal folding chair. All in all it feels a bit like a cell. We are definitely talking upgrade.
In the morning I move about the Triplicate neighborhood streets among throngs of people, cars, trucks, rickshaws, horns, mufflers, whistles, and yelling. Eye contact is rare, make that non-existent, notwithstanding that I look at people directly, and stick out as an obvious, tall, white, foreign guy. The sight of green trees able to breathe and grow in the city comforts me. The calling of crows with gray collars that make it look like they too are dirty also helps, although I ’m quite sure that what the kahkahs – which is Tamil for crow – are saying and asking me is, “What the fuck do you think you’re doing here?” And, of course, the crow guides’ question is the absolutely right question, which I don’t really know the answer to (on a spiritual quest? studying yoga?), because all I’ve found so far, at least to my eyes, is a dirty, highly polluted, teeming, and somewhat nondescript, gray city. Besides, what I really want to know first, even before I try to answer the crows, is can my diet for the next five weeks in India really consist of only bananas, cashew nuts, Kit Kat bars, and water?
My favorite moments are when taxi drivers seeking to take me on as a fare as I walk aimlessly – the only obvious foreigner – through the streets ask me, “Where are you going?” And I reply, “I have no idea.” And I really don’t. Over the course of four days in Chennai dozens of people ask me, what I am doing here, which I can’t answer, followed by the even more pointed and revealing question “Okay, but why did you choose Chennai?” And for three days I tell all of them, I really don’t know.
Arrival
January, 2014
I arrive in Sumatra by air at the provincial capital in Padang (pronounced Padong) and grab a taksi to take me straight to Bukittinggi, a town 100 kilometers north, and one of only two towns of any size – aside from Padang – in this region of Western Sumatra. I’ve chosen Bukittinggi hoping that instead of hopping from town to town on a Sumatra survey tour I can focus on one area and branch out into the surrounding countryside and villages without having to pack, unpack, schlepp, check-in, arrange transportation, etc. It’s always a bit of a gamble to focus on only one venue, but I seek depth more than breadth, and, remembering my extended stay in Pyin-Oo-Lwin, Myanmar as being very successful and comfortable, I’m hoping to repeat that in Bukittinggi in Sumatra.
What humbles and frightens me first, though, is the road to Bukittinggi itself. You’ve been on these roads in third world countries. Yes? There is no highway. There is only one lane in each direction. The traffic is snarled and dangerous. Whole families with two and even three kids under five are zooming in and out of traffic on motorcycles. No one is wearing a helmet. Or perhaps the driver is. Horns are blowing as if one could discern what is being specifically communicated in the cacophony. The roadside is littered with garbage and trash, some burning in small smoky fires. The houses are tumbledown. There isn’t a road sign, a traffic signal, or a roadside restaurant. On the sides of the road are swampy ditches and swampy fields that I’m sure are the traditional homes of millions of breeding mosquitos just waiting to transmit some abominable tropical disease to me personally. And these conditions are repeated for mile after mile until, of course, they get worse.
One side of the two-lane bridge across this only north/south road over a river gorge has crumbled.
Beyond the bridge live electric wires have fallen across the road and are being held up in the air by a short man with a long bamboo pole – sufficiently high for cars and motorcycles to pass under, but not for buses or larger trucks.
There has been a traffic accident.
Ambulances with their sirens blaring are going nowhere.
Our line of northbound traffic is barely inching forward, but nothing is moving in a southerly direction.
There is no other road north or south. I said that, right?
My driver doesn’t speak English.
The guesthouse I’ve planned to stay at is noted in my cell phone, but I have no Internet connectivity.
It has started to rain. Hard.
I need to pee.
Then, finally, emerging from the muck – well, actually, a continuation of the muck – is Bukittinggi, and then the guesthouse. Both are initially underwhelming.
Sumatra
January, 2014
I arrive in Sumatra by air at the provincial capital in Padang (pronounced Padong) and grab a taksi to take me straight to Bukittinggi, a town 100 kilometers north, and one of only two towns of any size – aside from Padang – in this region of Western Sumatra. I’ve chosen Bukittinggi hoping that instead of hopping from town to town on a Sumatra survey tour I can focus on one area and branch out into the surrounding countryside and villages without having to pack, unpack, schlepp, check-in, arrange transportation, etc. It’s always a bit of a gamble to focus on only one venue, but I seek depth more than breadth, and, remembering my extended stay in Pyin-Oo-Lwin, Myanmar as being very successful and comfortable, I sought to repeat that in Bukittinggi in Sumatra.
Myanmar
Myanmar is the most authentically non western country/culture i have ever seen or been in. Fields with over 1000 buddha statues 4 or 5 times life size. Reclining buddha statues the size of ocean liners that you can walk in like the statue of liberty, only MUCH BIGGER, so much so trucks can drive inside the reclining buddha. Monks everywhere. Children everywhere. Pagodas in caves, stupas on seemingly unreachable pinnacles, mountaintop villages that can be accessed only by foot and that must be what Shangri La was intended to depict. 85% of the people are engaged in agriculture. Ox carts. 1940 chevy trucks. Women with yellow caked faces, men wearing longyis. Even in the cities people cook with wood and charcoal. Refrigeration is rare, mostly styrofoam and ice. Even on the moving train they cook with wood.
Yoga in Bagan
On a sunny hot afternoon in Bagan, Myanmar I decide to do yoga out of doors. Although I am self-conscious about doing yoga where I can be seen, next to our guesthouse is a lovely 1,000 year-old brick and mortar temple that I wander over to and where I lay down my mat on the level back terrace, out of view of people at the guesthouse and in the midday shade. From my mat I can see the bamboo hut village that abuts the temple, the dusty ox cart and walking paths that connect the village, and the garbage heap where the plastic bags and bottles that blight the countryside are dumped. Focusing on yoga takes a bit of effort, but soon I am moving from posture to posture, eyes closed, breathing mindfully and rhythmically, somehow having forgotten about my setting.
Perhaps forty or so minutes into my routine, on instinct, I turn around and look to my rear where I see four boys, about 8 to 10 years old, each carrying handmade slingshots, and each staring at me in a mystified, fascinated, respectful way. I have no idea how long they’ve been there, but my guess is about three to five minutes. And although I laugh out loud on seeing the boys, which markedly breaks the silence, I also continue my practices and postures. Only now the boys have put down their slingshots and are imitating my movements and giggling. And while I am doing the postures, I am also laughing out loud at the boys and at myself. And the more I laugh the move unbounded the boys’ movements and laughter become, and soon we are all laughing loudly together and doing yoga postures together in the shade of the temple. After about five minutes of moving through a series of standing postures I simply cannot go on with the yoga in a focused way, so I sit down on my mat, cross-legged, facing them. And they sit down on the terrace floor cross-legged facing me. I say “yoga” and they laugh. I do a side stretch and they do a side stretch. I move very slowly and explicitly into a full lotus. They move into full lotus. I briefly lift my butt off the ground about half an inch pressing into my palms. They all lift their butts up four or five inches above the terrace and swing back and forth supported on their palms as I can only imagine doing. They are so wiry, and funny, and, of course, laughing hysterically. And when we move into downward dog, the rocks they are carrying around for their slingshots fall out of their shirt pockets and clatter to the brick and mortar floor, and they are laughing even harder. And I am laughing. And there is no way to keep up even this level of the practice while laughing so hard, and it is nearly time for me to be ending anyhow. So I sit down cross legged again facing them. And they sit down cross legged facing me. And I say “hello” in Burmese. And they say hello. And I put my hands in prayer position in front of my heart. And they put their hands together in prayer position in front of their hearts. And I say, “Namaste.” And they giggle. And I bow toward them. And the boys bow toward me. And I get up and roll up my mat. And they get up and grab their slingshots and start firing at leaves and tree trunks and the temple bells. And I say goodbye. And they say goodbye. And I wave. And they wave. And I ring a huge temple bell very loudly with the large wooden striker left there for that purpose. And the bell reverberates. And I reverberate. And I walk back toward the guesthouse. And when I am almost there I turn around, and the boys are still standing on the temple terrace waving, and I wave again, and say “Namaste” again, and walk to my room, my asana practice over for the day.
Pacific Coast Musings
Herewith an introduction as to what brings me to this fabled place …
This page describes some of my wanderings in early 2022 around the very large and beautiful foreign land known as California. I begin by acknowledging this is colonized/occupied territory, formerly or currently lived in by many indigenous people/tribes/nations whose spirit, ancestors, and deep love and respect for this land are palpable. How else can it be when walking in beauty?
I have traveled among the humans for four score and more. I imagined I would go to Ramallah, Palestine to be away from winter and the angry, divisive US of A vibration for a few months studying Arabic, drinking coffee, writing, doing yoga, and supporting the Palestinians by my mere and very presence spending time, money, and energy among them. Walking the talk. But Covid precluded my getting into Israel, and more so the Occupied Territories, and I still wanted (needed badly) to get away from the energy inside this country, inside my home, and within my own soul by get away/escaping for a few winter months. Whereupon the Great Spirit said unto me, “Be among your children and grandchildren,” something I hadn’t been aware of wanting, fearing unconsciously perhaps that they didn’t necessarily want to spend time with me, without ever considering whether they feared I didn’t want to spend time with them, perhaps evoked by my apparent prioritization of international travel and political commitment before them, as manifest by my travel choices in my 60s and 70s. And so I came unconsciously to California, drawn to where my descendants are, wanting to be nearer them. Permitting myself to be just another grandparent wanting to spend time with the kids and grandkids. And here I am.